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hellooooo [07 Dec 2009|04:04pm]

Name: Thea

Age: 21

Location: Portland, OR

What Boulder Level You Climb At: The highest I've ever completed was a 3, I think, although I constantly try to tackle problems well above my skill level.

How Long You've Been Climbing / Bouldering: about 2 years

Home Boulder Area: My garage! (CHECK US OUT--

Favorite Bouldering Area: Carver

Name Some Boulder Areas You've Been To: Rocky Butte, Carver

Place You'd Like To Go To Boulder: Anywhere beautiful, or where I could climb above water that isn't the Pacific Ocean. NOT FUN TO DROP IN TO.

Any Routes On Your Tick List / Goals: Mostly to become a better, stronger climber. I have flexibility on my side, and would love to be able to utilize it more.

Any Interesting Experiences: Nothing too "interesting"....mostly just Potentially Horrible. I once witnessed my climbing buddy stick his hand in a crack that turned out to be a hornet's nest. Fortunately I was paying attention (for once in my life) and saw the hornets start to crawl around his hand and yelled at him to drop. Lots of running and screaming ensued.

Any Pictures You'd Like To Post Of Yourself:
At Carver (where part of "Twilight" was filmed...we got to experience a mob of fanatical tourists flocking the area)
V4|Climb It!

Inside outside outside inside [20 Feb 2009|05:39pm]

So it turns out that the human construct of time is somehow related to the changing climber. It's been a couple years since my indoor vs outdoor climbing post (found HERE), and those two years have witnessed some serious changes in my climbing life. I climb outside and I enjoy it. A zillion times more than climbing inside, if you would believe it. In fact, I've come to a point where I travel far and wide in search of good rocks - a perfect remedy for my wanderlust and newfound love of outdoor climbing.

That is not to say that I have changed my opinion about indoor and outdoor climbing being different sports, I still believe that. Perhaps less now than before, but the distinction is still there. I suppose it depends largely on the athlete's mindset. But I just wanted to say, and I realize I'm preaching to the crowd here, that climbing is amazing. There are forms of it that are ridiculously ridiculous (*cough* crack climbing *cough* slab *cough* [no really, props to you guys!]), but as I said long ago, to each her own.

And if you're a gym climber and you haven't fallen in love with the world of outdoor climbing, I'm not going to criticize you or anything. I used to hate outdoor climbing. It took me a while to start liking it (2 years), but eventually something just clicked. If you're perfectly happy with climbing inside, go for it. And don't let any of us outside climbers make fun of you for it either. We're just jealous you don't have to pay hundreds of dollars to climb in some freezing cold mountains just north of the Mediterranean.

And really, to each her own.
V2|Climb It!

[22 Jan 2009|08:19pm]

From this last trip to Hueco.

V3|Climb It!

Rock Climbing Should Be In The Olympics [22 Aug 2008|11:58am]


Love it, sign it, spread it.
Climb It!

Faster than expected [31 Jul 2008|12:27am]

I'm sitting here, waiting for the dawn to come. I'm going to Mortar in the morning to try to this problem, Sunshine Eliminate. I'm psyched on it. I saw pictures of my friend Eric Sanchez on it. That did it for me. I learned his beta and I'm gonna do it. I don't care if it's "too hard" or any thing. I'm psyched and that's that. No distractions, nothing. It's gonna be like when I did Nat's Backwards. No distractions no nothing.

In another note, I'm brekaing my limits faster than I expected. Greg was right, goals will drop sooner than expected……
Climb It!

BRAND NEW Climbing Shoes up for grab! [15 Jun 2008|11:57am]

My friend won both of these from a recent competition and it's not his size. Too big for him thus letting them go.
Climb It!

[18 May 2008|12:30am]

I love SoCal bouldering. That is probably the only thing I love about SoCal. But damn, it is nice.

@ Black Mountain:
Climb It!

Lately… [13 May 2008|08:19am]

Climbing is way better now. Even if I'm inside, I'm still having fun which is most important. In, out, it doesn't matter really,as long as I'm moving up. Inside is a good to climb with friends who don't go out much or I don't see much and out is when I'm on a mission with a vision to send and be somewhere for an afternoon or day or a weekend or a week. So I'm glad I can feel this way about climbing and pulling on plastic again.

"Training" (i.e. just climbing my ass off) these days at Ironworks and GWPC (Great Western Power Company) in Berkeley and Oakland. I usually climb for about 2 to three solid hours with minimal rest and then do conditioning and bike back to the train. It's really nice really. The weather is warm, too warm for the home area here in Nor Cal, but the wind blows a bit to cool it down a bit, but not enough. Anyways, I feel much stronger than I have before. I think doing 200 crunches a day is helping my core improve so I'm psyched on that. Better core, better footwork, and better footwork means my feet stay on longer and I don't have to use much force to keep them on which is really rad. I love power moves where you're feet cut, but to do something static and have you're feet stay put is the coolest feeling.

I finally used the system wall / woody at GWPC; that thing is gonna kick my ass so hard. I did a couple laps on the pinches and my fingers were sore this morning. I already feel a little stronger. Maybe it's my mentality I'm very psyched right now and can't wait to see what happens outside in June. Super stoked.

Also, I have yet another blog I post my climbing adventures in. It's located here. Go check it. I try to update weekly with pictures. Once I get a new video camera, there should be some clips up.
Climb It!

Guess I'm new here: [12 May 2008|11:30pm]
Name: I don't want to be judged by these things.

Age: " "

Location: Denver

What Boulder Level You Climb At: One v10, but that isn't to say I boulder V10. V9 though, I'm thinking.

How Long You've Been Climbing / Bouldering: About 3 years

Home Boulder Area: Mount Evans, and RMNP, so good.

Favorite Bouldering Area: Hueco Tanks, so far above all else.

Name Some Boulder Areas You've Been To: Hueco, and quite a lot along the front range.

Place You'd Like To Go To Boulder: Joe's valley, British Virgin Gorda, South Africa, Malta

Any Routes On Your Tick List / Goals: God, so much: Public Execution (V10) @ Mt Evans, Power of Silence (v10) @ Hueco, Fingerhut (v10) @ Joe's, Those are the biggies at least.

Any Interesting Experiences: Lots of injuries and shenanigans.

A bit more in depth: I don't have much more to say, I love the sport. I love the training for the sport, I love the people in the sport, I love the movement, I love the opportunities, I love the style, I love the adventure, I love the thrill of the chase, I love the air around a scary boulder problem, I love the feel of a great spot, I love the act of brushing holds on your project, I love sending, I love falling off a new high point, I love comps, I love onsiting, I love redpointing, but I hate flappers.
V3|Climb It!

Climbing…I'm back [18 Apr 2008|01:00am]

Bouldering…I have forgotten my roots. Like a bleached blonde, i have been covering roots of where I started, why I climb, how I climb, and most importantly why I boulder. Lately, I've been "training" for route comps. Each day I go "training" I feel like it's a burden. I feel like it's not what I want, but what my coach wants. I started questioning my decision to be on a team this year. At first, it was to get stronger for bouldering season. After that ended, I rushed into route training. Nothing was for fun anymore. Everything had become all work and very little play. I felt as if I wasn't getting any stronger, but retrogressing towards what I used to be, what I worked so hard to not become was happening all over again. It came crashing back down tonight inside myself that nothing was happening correctly. Something was off. I wanted to break down, show my anger fully and let it all rage out. I held it together, just barely. I was tired, my back hurt, my head hurt, my eyes and fingers hurt. I wanted to just throw my towel in like I had been doing for weeks. Over the years, train rides have provided me with many thought-sessions. I thought about how I had been so caught up in grade chasing, I forgot what climbing was really about for me. It's not about grade chasing. Climbing to me has always been an adventure. You never know what to expect, even from routes you've done 10, 100, 1000 times. Holds break and the rock weathers over time. Even on things I have done over and over I notice something new about it. For me, climbing is about adventuring and exploring new and old places. I had lost my sense of adventure. I had become the epitome of the word "gym rat". Nothing was fun anymore. It felt more of something I HAD to do, rather than what I wanted to do.

Climbing isn't about being the best. Climbing is about going out, pushing your self to a new limit. You don't have to send to push yourself. Anytime you fall off something over and over you know you can do, you're at your limit pushing. As long as you keep trying and not have a doubt, you will send. There will be days when it feels hard but other days you might get far on a project, each time learning something new. There are no "working" days, you don't "work" a project. It's more of a "learning" process. you LEARN how to do certain moves and learn how you need to move your body in correspondence to the rhythm or a certain problem or route. This is what climb is for me. Climbing is about learning; learning how to move, but also learning how to move in your environment. If you don't notice the places you go and solely focus on the goal, you will surely be disappointed in where you will ended up. I say this because sure, you wanna top out or clip the anchors of your project. But is that really the ultimate and finale of a climb? I disagree by saying that noticing the journey makes the top much more rewarding than it would be if you didn't pay attention to where you where going.

Climbing is…everything.
The dirt…
the air…
the scenery.
V2|Climb It!

[16 Apr 2008|05:45pm]

What up boulderers. That's right, I said boulderers, not rope climbers. Because rope climbers are a different bunch. And I mean different bunch. The difference between boulderers and rope climbers doesn't end with the preferred type of climbing. It extends to personality.

What do boulderers have that rope climbers don't? Why did we choose bouldering instead of rope climbing?

Well, I thought long and hard and came up with a few reasons.

1. Boulderers tend to be a little more on the reckless side. By this I only mean that we'd be more likely to pull a Leeroy Jenkins. Rope climbers are a little more...calculated in their game. I mean, come on, let's face it: we're comparing people who would climb 20 feet only with rope to people who would climb 20 feet without it. In fact, us boulderers would probably not climb that 20 foot problem with rope, given the choice. Where's the fun in that?

2. Rope is annoying. I don't know about you guys, but the last time I tried to lead, I was seriously spending more time trying to clip the damn rope into the bolts than I was actually climbing. OK so maybe I'm just incompetent, but that shit was still annoying. And top roping is bad too - it totally gets in the way.

3. Gear is annoying. I don't want to carry stuff around. I don't like checking in at airports. With bouldering, depending on where you're going, you may not even need a crash pad.

4. Gear is expensive. Rope, harnesses, rope bags, carabiners, ATCs, anchors = way more than a crash pad.

5. Dynos are cool. Bouldering is more explosive than rope climbing - I mean, take all your power and put it in 10 moves versus 100. The 10 moves are going to be a lot more intense, and be way more awesome. It's like sprinting versus long distance running. I'm sorry but the 100 meter dash is just way more interesting than the 32 mile race. Don't you get bored after 100 meters anyway?

In the end, boulderers have the more awesome personality....because...they just do. Sure, rope climbing has its fun parts, but the climbers themselves are just...not boulderers. Ha this post makes no sense at all.
V12|Climb It!

[20 Jan 2008|11:02am]

Youth regionals for Northern California were .... alright. The setting was technical on almost every problem, almost no power. There was one power problem, but it was the last for me and I was sapped. but I managed to get the highest and that's how I won Junior guys. There were no flash bonuses so according to the score sheet and no point deduction on falls. I flashed problem one, "flashed" problem two (which I'll explain), got to teh stopper curx on three cause my hands kept greasing off a slippery hold, and got high point which was control of a hold on problem number 4.

Problem two, my foot slipped as I was going towards the end. and i didnt't get the hold. But I did it 2:go. I thought I got some points taken away for that, but when I saw teh score sheet, it said I got 1000/1000 for it, as in I flashed it. So it really did not matter if you flashed. Which would have been nice to know cuase I probably would have climbed better and maybe smoother.

But the comp .... was boring. Nothing really happened that was funny or interesting. Zero Gravity swept the comp with me bring home the gold for junior guys, Gabbi Masse winning her category, Sera Busse taking first, and little Gabby and Silas placing well in their categories. The only problem was bottlenecked problems like my third one and Youth-D. no one really made it far on theirs cause of the reaches except Sera who dug deep and reached and flashed 3 out of 4 problems.
Climb It!

Hiya [17 Jan 2008|11:52pm]


Hi fellow climbers!  I'm new to the community, and just want to say hello.  I've been climbing for about 2 years, mostly indoors, but several outdoor trips, to The Pinnacles, and Bishop (last Spring Break).  My all-time favorite--route climbing in Owens River Gorge.  Anyone else been there? (I'm sure you Bishop people have!)

I'm headed out to the Pinns this weekend for some frozen camping and climbing.  I haven't climbed outside, or much at all, lately, so it's going to be, uh, interesting, but I'm stoked to hang out with friends, and have an adventure.  If I take any pics, I'll post them here :-)

V1|Climb It!

[13 Jan 2008|12:48pm]

Two weekends ago I went with some friends to smack the Bishop.

I had a good trip that started out slow in the Ice Caves @ the Sad's and I just did Chizam in my Psyches with no pad or spotter. Beefcake looked good but I was so tired to try anything else. Must go back though to send some more things in the Sad's.

The next day in the Happy's, my friends and I met up with Damon Corso and Christina Pilo at the Slowdance Cave. Christina and I wanted to go work Action Figure at the Lowrider area, so we packed our pads and made the 5 minute walk over to it and set them up. I stepped up the climb and put the smack down. I, WALKED, Action Figure like it was v2, not v7. Christina was so close, but it bouted her (this time ;), but my friend got these great shot of her on it. So did it one more time just to see if I could repeat it with no problems and I could so I decided to stop and find something else to work. Sure enough, there's a traverse into it called Gang Related that's not hard at all. I did that 2:go, immediately after I fell off my flash attempt. It felt good to do it since the moves aren't hard but it's called anywhere from a v7-8. I thought it felt softer than that, but that's just me. I also did Little Country Girl around the corner in 3 tries, in socks and shoes not strapped. I got confused on the top out when I tried the top and ended up going the wrong way and up to the top of Volcanic Tableland. None the less, a good climb I thought. Height dependent though.

THe next day we ventured to the land of Milk and Honey to try to send some granite problems. I tried High Plains Drifter a lot of times that day, but didn't send , which is cool cause it shows that i need to train more and stay psyched. I was close though so I know I can do it next time. I also tried Soulslinger but my foot popped as I was reaching up to get through the crux. So annoying but what can you do? I also tried the thin Yayoi Right which I nee to come back for as well. I went to watch my friend almost do Stained Glass. He was an inch from sending. So close! Anyways, I went back to the Drifter to try it a couple more times before we had to leave. I saw my friend, Elise, fire it off 2:go which was rad! I was psyched and ready to send but it just wouldn't let me that day. Oh well, just means I must travel back to finish.

I wish I had some photos from the trip, but my friend has yet to give me them.
V2|Climb It!

[01 Jan 2008|11:32am]

Pictures from j-tree.
Read more...Collapse )
V5|Climb It!

[20 Dec 2007|03:11pm]

[ mood | relaxed ]

(re-posting my introduction, as i have switched journals. formerly je_suis_kaleigh.)

Hey, guys. My name's Kaleigh and I'm new to the community. I've been climbing since February of this year, so I'll be achieving one-year status shortly. I'm much more savvy indoors because I'm from Gainesville, FL where it's quite obvious there is no rock climbing. I'm a V3/4ish/5.9ish indoor climber... I've climbed outdoors a few times. I took my first outdoor trip to the Stone Fort in Chattanooga, TN back in April and then I competed in all of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series which put me on rocks at Hound Ears (North Carolina), HP40 (Alabama), and again in Chatt. I sent 'These Feel Like Your Sisters' at the Stone Fort at Triple Crown which is my most esteemed achievement thus far-- not for its grade or difficulty but it's my favorite outdoor problem thus far and I worked really hard at sending it so it felt incredible to walk away from the comp. with that under my belt.

Anyway, that's my introduction. Here are some photos for shits&gigglesCollapse )

V1|Climb It!

Keeping up my strength. [29 Nov 2007|07:46pm]

I broke my fibula and my ankle in two places when I was bouldering a couple of weeks ago, but none of it is too serious, thank god. I can't start rehab for a couple more weeks, but the rest of my body is losing its strength.

I can't get to the climbing gym or gym yet, and I can't put up a fingerboard because of the plaster walls in my place.

Any suggestions? I'll be able to drive starting sometime next week, which will open up my options.
V1|Climb It!

equipment: [11 Oct 2007|09:54pm]

could u write what equipement do i need to buy to (3 different lists):
1) rock climbing in summer
2) ice climbing
3) alpinism
V3|Climb It!

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